In Brief
English paper piecing (EPP) is one of the most portable and meditative techniques in quilting, producing intricate, precisely shaped patchwork entirely by hand. If you already machine piece, think of EPP as precision patchwork in slow motion: more time per unit, but exquisite accuracy, wonderful design flexibility, and a project you can pick up and put down anywhere.
This guide is written for quilters looking to add EPP to their skill set. It covers everything from choosing your papers and tools to basting, stitching and finishing - with product recommendations throughout.
What Is English Paper Piecing?
EPP involves wrapping fabric around pre-cut paper templates, basting them in place, then joining the wrapped pieces together with small, neat hand stitches. The paper gives each shape perfect accuracy, so points and angles match beautifully. Once a unit is complete, the papers are removed and can be reused.
EPP is ideal for fussy cutting, using up small scraps, and building complex designs like flowers, stars and rosettes one unit at a time. The technique suits shapes that would be very difficult to achieve by machine. Hexagons, diamonds, jewels, clamshells and elongated hexagons are all EPP classics.
Choosing Your Papers and Templates
Accurate papers are the foundation of good EPP. You will typically work with two types:
- Paper pieces - pre-cut card templates in your chosen shape and size. Good papers are accurately cut, firm enough to hold a crisp edge, but not so thick that they're hard to baste around or remove cleanly. The C&T English Paper Piecing Speciality Paper is purpose-made for EPP with the ideal weight for basting and reuse. For pre-cut hexagons ready to use straight from the pack, the Small Hexagon Paper Pieces ¾" are a reliable choice.
- Acrylic templates - clear templates in the same shapes and sizes as your papers, used with a rotary cutter to cut fabric accurately. They often include a built-in seam allowance and fussy-cutting guidelines. The Sew Easy Mini Hexagon 1½" Template and Sew Easy Mini 120 Degree Triangle 2½" Template are good starting points. For planning your own layouts and drafting templates, the Clearview Equilateral Graph Paper Pad is invaluable.
Avoid flimsy or fuzzy-edged papers - those tiny inaccuracies add up row by row.
Fabric and Thread
Tightly woven 100% quilting cotton is your best choice for EPP. It folds crisply around paper templates, holds a crease well and resists fraying. Small and medium-scale prints, stripes and tone-on-tones are easy to place; large prints are wonderful for fussy cutting. The Fussy Cut Mirrors are an excellent tool for planning fussy cuts and visualising how a print will look before you cut.
For EPP, the aim is accuracy and minimal bulk rather than strength alone. A fine thread helps pieces sit neatly and keeps stitches almost invisible. Thread colour matters more than fibre - a shade that blends closely with your fabric will make even slightly larger stitches disappear neatly. Soft neutrals such as light grey, beige, pale taupe are surprisingly versatile across a wide range of prints.
In terms of thread weight and fibre, the main options are as follows:
- YLI Silk #100 - the finest and most traditional choice. Very fine, strong for its size, and glides through fabric beautifully. Many experienced hand piecers favour it.
- Aurifil 80wt cotton - also ideal for EPP. Fine enough to reduce bulk and gives a crisp, precise seam. Available in individual colours or as the Aurifil Calm Thread Collection 80wt - a beautifully coordinated set of neutral tones ideal for EPP.
- Aurifil 50wt cotton - slightly heavier than necessary for EPP, but a perfectly good all-round compromise and often already in your stash.
- Superior Bottom Line 60wt polyester - very fine and strong, a practical modern option available in a wide range of colours. Some prefer cotton or silk for a more traditional feel, but Bottom Line is an excellent choice for those who prioritise durability and a very fine stitch.
In summary:
The finest and most traditional thread - YLI Silk #100 or Aurifil 80wt cotton
A good all-round compromise is Aurifil 50wt cotton
A fine and very strong modern option - Superior Bottom Line 60wt polyester.
Browse our full range of EPP threads at Quilt Direct.
Needles, Pins and Clips
Because you are hand sewing through folded fabric layers, needle choice matters more than in machine piecing. Choose sharp, fine needles, often labelled milliners or sharps, in a size that feels comfortable but glides easily through the fabric. Investing in good quality needles really reduces hand fatigue: blunt or rough needles will fight you every stitch of the way.
To hold seam allowances in place while you baste, Clover Wonder Clips or Taylor Seville Small Magic Clips are ideal - they grip without distorting the fabric. When it comes to stitching two basted pieces together, the SewTites English Paper Piecing Palette is particularly useful: the magnetic tiles hold two pieces firmly right sides together while you stitch, keeping everything aligned without pins or clips getting in the way of your needle.
A comfortable thimble is essential. The Colonial Thimble It is a flexible pad that protects your finger without restricting movement. The Dritz Soft Comfort Thimble is another popular choice for long hand-sewing sessions.
Cutting Tools
Even though EPP is hand-sewn, neat cutting is the foundation for neat piecing. If you already machine quilt, you'll have most of what you need:
- A sharp 28mm rotary cutter or Olfa 28mm gives precise control around small acrylic templates. A 45mm cutter works well for cutting strips to sub-cut into shapes.
- A self-healing cutting mat - the Omnigrid Foldaway Mini 7" x 7" is ideal for EPP on the go.
- A fresh blade makes a noticeable difference when cutting small shapes - don't underestimate this.
- Small, sharp scissors for snipping threads: the Amanda Murphy Curved Snips are excellent for getting into tight spaces.
- If you're working on a larger EPP project and want to cut both fabric and paper pieces quickly and accurately, the AccuQuilt GO! Qube English Paper Piecing 1" Finished Sides is an excellent investment. Used with an AccuQuilt GO! cutter, it cuts fabric and paper pieces in one pass with perfect consistency - ideal for machine quilters who want to bring that same efficiency to their EPP cutting.
Basting: Three Methods Explained
Basting attaches your fabric to the paper template. There are three practical approaches, each giving a slightly different balance of speed, security and paper reuse. For machine quilters new to EPP, glue basting is the easiest way to start - but it's worth knowing all three.
1. Tacking through the papers (most secure)
Place the paper on the wrong side of the fabric and fold the seam allowance over. Take small running stitches through the folded seam allowance and the paper, working all the way around the shape. The fabric is firmly anchored - ideal for pieces that will be handled a lot or stored for a long time. The trade-off is that you'll need to snip and remove these basting stitches before taking the papers out, so this method is best when paper reuse isn't a priority.
2. Corner stitching only (best for paper reuse)
Place the paper on the wrong side of the fabric and fold the seam allowance over each edge in turn. Instead of stitching along every edge, secure each folded corner with a tiny stitch that catches just the seam allowance layers together, not the paper itself. The seam allowances are held neatly in place, the papers slide out easily once the surrounding shapes are sewn, and you can reuse your templates across multiple projects. This is the method to learn once you're comfortable with the basics.
3. Glue basting (fastest - recommended for beginners)
Place the paper on the wrong side of the fabric. Run a thin line of fabric-safe glue along one edge of the paper, fold the seam allowance over and press it into the glue, then work your way around the shape edge by edge. Glue basting gives very crisp edges and speeds up the prep stage considerably - a natural fit for machine quilters used to working efficiently. The Sewline Temporary Glue Pen and Fons & Porter Temporary Glue Stick are both excellent choices. Papers release cleanly with a good quality glue, though they may not last quite as many reuses as with corner stitching alone.
Whichever method you choose, the goal is the same, a crisp, accurate fabric edge that hugs the paper without pleats or bubbles.
Stitching Shapes Together
Before sewing, lay your basted shapes out on a flat surface in the order they'll be joined. This is especially important for fussy-cut or complex rosette designs - tiny rotations can change the look of a motif entirely. Take a quick photo on your phone as a visual reference.
Whip stitch is the most common joining stitch. Place two basted shapes right sides together, edges aligned. Knot a fine thread and bring the needle up from the back, catching a few threads of fabric very close to the folded edge on one piece, then the other. Work from corner to corner in tiny stitches, just grabbing the outer threads of each fold - not the paper. Keep tension firm but not so tight that it puckers. A finer thread and shorter stitch make joins almost invisible from the front.
Ladder stitch gives a beautifully flat finish and is worth learning once you're comfortable with whip stitch. Take small horizontal stitches between the folds, alternating sides, then gently pull to close the ladder. It is a little slower to learn but produces very neat results.
Start and finish with small back-stitches or by weaving your thread into previous stitches to secure. The Missie's Traditional Primitives Fingertip Stiletto is useful for manipulating fabric and paper pieces precisely as you join small sections.
Removing Papers and Pressing
Once a unit is surrounded by other shapes on all sides, for example, the centre hexagon of a flower, you can remove its paper. Gently lift the seam allowance and ease the paper out with your fingertip or a blunt tool. If you've glue basted, run a fingernail or the back of a needle along the edge to release it. Don't rush - if the fabric feels stuck, work more gently until it releases.
After removing a batch of papers, press from the back with a warm iron, then from the front to set the seams. The Clover Mini Iron II is ideal for pressing around small EPP shapes with precision. Alternatively, a seam roller flattens seams without heat. Avoid sliding the iron - press and lift to keep shapes from distorting. Good pressing makes EPP units lie beautifully flat, ready to be appliquéd onto a background or joined into a larger piece.
Turning EPP into Finished Projects
One of the joys of EPP is how flexible it is. You can applique EPP panels onto a larger background fabric for cushions, bags, quilt centres or borders. Units can be joined into a full quilt top. Use tiny motifs for pincushions, needle books, pouches and mug rugs. Hexagons are ideal for beginners. Once you're comfortable with the technique, explore diamonds, stars, jewels, elongated hexagons, and mixed-shape designs with carefully chosen template sets. Build your skills gradually, starting with something small and achievable. Enjoy the process then commit to a larger project.
Comfort and Good Habits
Because EPP is hand-intensive, a few habits are worth adopting early: work in good light to reduce eye strain, take breaks to stretch your hands and shoulders, and keep a portable project pouch with papers, basted shapes, thread and needles together - perfect for travel or sofa sewing. Don't be afraid to unpick: a few extra minutes now saves frustration later. Above all, let yourself enjoy the rhythm of it.
Common Questions About English Paper Piecing
Is English paper piecing suitable for beginners?
Yes - EPP is very accessible, particularly for quilters who already machine piece. The paper templates do the hard work of keeping shapes accurate, and hexagons are a forgiving starting point. The main adjustment is slowing down and developing a rhythm with the hand stitching.
What is the best shape to start with in English paper piecing?
Hexagons are the classic starting point. They have no sharp points, join together intuitively, and the traditional hexagon flower (a central hexagon surrounded by six others) is a satisfying first project that teaches you everything you need to know.
Can I reuse EPP paper templates?
Yes - unlike foundation paper piecing, EPP papers are not necessarily stitched through during sewing, so they can be reused many times. Corner stitching (rather than tacking through the paper) and glue basting both preserve the papers well. Good-quality papers, such as the C&T EPP Speciality Paper, are designed to withstand repeated use.
What thread is best for English paper piecing?
YLI Silk #100 and Aurifil 80wt cotton are the top choices for fine, invisible stitching. If you already have Aurifil 50wt in your stash, that works well too. The most important thing is choosing a colour that blends with your fabric.
What is the difference between English paper piecing and foundation paper piecing?
EPP is a hand-sewn technique where fabric is wrapped around paper templates and pieces are joined by hand stitching. Foundation paper piecing (FPP) is a machine-sewn technique where fabric is sewn onto a printed paper template in numbered sequence, then the paper is torn away. Both produce very accurate results but suit different projects and working styles.
Get Started
Browse our full range of English paper piecing supplies at Quilt Direct, including EPP papers, tools, and threads. Starting with quality tools means you spend your time learning the technique, not wrestling with papers that buckle or needles that snag.
